The energy in a wave comes from the wind that blows across the water’s surface. As the wind touches the water it transfers its energy. The energy that the water picks up makes the water particles move up and down, but they don’t move forward. A wave changes as it moves closer to land. In deep water only the surface is affected by a wave, but once they get to more shallow water, the waves start to drag on the bottom. Now that the wave has friction, the wave starts to slow down. Not until now do the water particles actually move, and can shape a shoreline.
Written by A.A.T.Gayathri